Western Trips

Sunday, June 2, 2013

Ruins of Historic Fort Selden / New Mexico



It's interesting just how close many old historic sites are to our modern Interstate Highway System. You'll see a good number of historic marker signs along western highways and in many instances you don't have to make a big detour to explore them.

fort selden state monument
One such historic site are the ruins of Fort Selden, located about thirteen miles north of Las Cruces New Mexico and just west of Interstate 25 near the Rio Grande. It's one of the many unique and interesting state monuments you'll find throughout New Mexico.


Saving An Historic Site

Thanks to the efforts of many people and organizations, the ruins at the old Fort Selden site have been saved for future generations to explore and enjoy.

Fort Selden was built in 1865 to protect settlers from both outlaw attacks and Indian attacks. The area around south central New Mexico was the scene of attacks from various Apache tribes as well as violent outlaws and gangs. The Mesilla Valley to the south was populated and some type of protection was greatly needed.

Many western army forts, especially in the plains and southwest, were abandoned around the year 1890. The Indian Wars in the west were over and the government wanted to cut expenses. When Fort Selden was abandoned in 1891 the structures were left to the elements. Wind, rain, snow all took their toll on the adobe style empty buildings. In addition to that, as was the case with other unprotected historic sites, souvanier hunters went through and removed parts of structures and just about anything they could find of value or interest.


fort selden ruins
View of Fort Selden adobe ruins
Things began to change around 1963, some seventy years after Fort Selden was abandoned. Something need to be done to protect such an historic site. If nothing was done the ruins would eventually be lost to history. When you see the ruins today it's amazing to know that at one time Fort Selden had numerous adobe buildings, an army hospital as well as stables and corrals.

The land around the site was donated to New Mexico. By 1970 the site was listed on the National Register of Historic Places and four years later the state designated the site one of it's state monuments.  Being a state monument, Fort Selden is operated by the New Mexico Department of Cultural Affairs.

The Troops of Fort Selden

Many different sets of troops occupied Fort Selden at various times. This included both Infantry and Cavalry. The troops were also composed of a good number of Buffalo Soldier regiments.

The Buffalo Soldiers had a strong presence in post Civil War New Mexico and served at several forts including Fort Union in northeastern New Mexico along the Santa Fe Trail, Fort Stanton to the north and east of Fort Selden, Fort Sumner of Billy the Kid notoriety and others as well.

old army forts
Another view of Fort Selden ruins
As mentioned above, the area around Fort Selden could be a lawless one, helped by it's long distance from the then territorial capital of Santa Fe.

An interesting side note regarding the fort is that during the early 1880's the post commander was Captain Arthur McArthur. McArthur's son was General Douglas McArthur of World War Two fame. 

After the end of the Civil War, black soldiers were formed into regiments, both infantry and cavalry. Most of these troops were sent to serve on the western frontier as opposed to serving in the South during Reconstruction. These were the troops referred to, especially by Native Americans, as the Buffalo Soldiers. After their regiments were formed in 1866 the Buffalo Soldiers comprising eight companies of the 125th Infantry were sent to New Mexico Territory. These troops were the first stationed at Fort Selden and would serve at seven forts throughout the territory. In the case of Fort Selden, the black troops along with others would go on to construct the buildings including the army hospital.

Black troops of the 9th Cavalry played a major role in the chasing down the Apache leader Victorio who was leading many of the raids in southern New Mexico. Victorio was eventually killed in battle by U.S. and Mexican soldiers who crossed the border north during the year in 1880 but the Apache conflicts still continued for some time under other chiefs. 

In addition to the Ninth Cavalry mentioned above, the Tenth Cavalry, also Buffalo Soldiers, would serve at Fort Selden. The black troops were excellent soldiers and fighter while serving at Fort Selden.The black troops were very excellent fighters whiles serving in the southwest. Nine Buffalo Soldiers would receive the Medal of Honor while serving in New Mexico Territory.

Links to two additional Western Trips photo articles you'll enjoy include:

el camino real
Army Forts along the old El Camino Real in NM
The Old Santa Fe Trail Wagon Ruts at Fort Union New Mexico

A Visit to Historic Mesilla New Mexico just outside of Las Cruces

Visiting Fort Selden State Monument

The state monument is open Wednesday through Monday. The site is closed on Tuesday. The Visitors Center at the state monument offers exhibits pertaining to the fort and frontier life in southern New Mexico.

Among the collections housed at Fort Selden State Monument are letters written by a soldier stationed there named James Henry Storey observing what life was like at a western army outpost. Information contained in these letters speak of both violence and boredom. Many of these letters had been sent east to New York addressed to his girlfriend. It's a collection you'll find interesting when visiting the ruins.

Visiting historic Fort Selden, viewing the ruins and exploring through the Visitors Center, gives you an excellent glimpse of the past. It's an excellent site to put on your New Mexico road trip planner and is one of the many unique state monuments you'll find throughout the state.

(Photos from author's collection)


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