A Little Known Wild West Show / Buckskin Bill's

Eventually after the 1800's were over and a new century dawned, wild west shows started to lose their allure. This was for several reasons but America's fascination with westward expansion may have been the largest factor. Another was the emergence of the cinema. Even though some of the fascination dried up there were many other wild west shows that did sprout up during the first few decades of the 1900's.

William F. Cody and Sitting Bull

These included the Miller Brothers 101 Wild West Show, Booger Red's Wild West Show, Buckskin Ben's Wild West and Dog and Pony Show, Allen Brothers Wild West, Irwin Brothers Cheyenne Frontier Days Wild West Show and several others.

Three Excellent Venues on the History of the Wild West Shows 

Buffalo Bill Center of the West

When you're planning your western road trip, the best venue to include on your itinerary is the Buffalo Bill Center of the West in Cody Wyoming. Included at this site is the Buffalo Bill Museum and the Cody Forearms Museum. A stop here is well worth your time. The Buffalo Bill Museum first opened in 1927 in a log cabin in Cody Wyoming. In 1959 the museum was moved to a new wing of the Historical Center.

Part of this museum is dedicated to telling the story of Buffalo Bill's Wild West and how it took the world by strom during an era without the instant electronic communications we have today. Lots of information here about the American cowboy, western ranching and the frontier in general. The Buffalo Bill Center of the West is a perfect trip stop for the entire family. Cody Wyoming is just a few miles east of Yellowstone National Park and about 147 miles west of Sheridan.

Annie Oakley

Buffalo Bill Museum and Grave Site

Located in Golden Colorado, the Buffalo Bill Museum and Grave Site has attracted thousands of visitors from around the world. Exhibits cover all of Buffalo Bill's life, his exploits and his world famous Wild West. On display is a large collection of frontier artifacts including firearms and Sitting Bull's bow and arrows.

William F. Cody died in January 1917 at his sister's house in Denver Colorado. he was buried on Lookout Mountain in Golden just west of Denver. Cody had made it known to his family that he preferred to be buried at this site.

The Pawnee Bill Ranch

If your western road trip takes you through Oklahoma, be sure to stop in at the Pawnee Bill Museum at the Pawnee Bill Ranch. The Pawnee Bill Ranch was once the showplace of the world famous Wild West Show entertainer, Gordon W. "Pawnee Bill" Lillie. Tour Pawnee Bill's fourteen room mansion built in 1910 with all it's original furnishings. On the ranch is the Pawnee Bill Museum with a large collection of artifacts from his Wild West Show. The Pawnee Bill Ranch is located in Pawnee Oklahoma, about 50 miles west/northwest of Tulsa.

Chief Geronimo in a 1905 Locomobile

The Top Three Old Wild West Shows

Buffalo Bill's Wild West was by far the most popular western show on tour. Buffalo Bill's Wild West toured all over Europe and attracted thousands of spectators including most of the monarchs ruling the continent. One of Buffalo Bill's more popular performer was the sharpshooter Annie Oakley.

Another popular touring group was Pawnee Bill's Wild West Show. At one time Sitting Bull joined Buffalo Bill's troupe for a few months and the Apache chief Geronimo joined Pawnee Bill. These wild west shows celebrated the cowboy alongside the Native American.

While Buffalo Bill and Pawnee Bill were away a good part of the time another wild west show emerged in Paducah Kentucky. Not that Paducah was ever thought as being a part of the wild west we usually think of, but Buckskin Bill's Wild West Show was unique in many ways and it was billed as being the largest such show after Buffalo Bill's and Pawnee Bill's.

Cowboy sculpture,American Quarter Horse Museum

The Trials and Tribulations of Buckskin Bill's Wild West Show

With the success of both Buffalo Bill Cody and Pawnee Bill (G.W. Lillie) on the entertainment circuit it's no surprise that others floated the same idea.A very interesting story concerns the little known Buckskin Bill's Wild West Show.

A man named Fletcher Terrell created the Buckskin Bill's Wild West Show in 1900. Who was Buckskin Bill? He was a fictional western character created by Terrell in place of a real wild west frontiersman. Both Bill Cody and Pawnee Bill served as authentic draws for their shows so Buckskin Bill would do the same for Fletcher Terrell. In fact the character that Terrell created as Buckskin Bill was similar to Buffalo Bill Cody in most ways except a younger version.

Fletcher Terrell sold his share the show in 1902 to W.E. Allott and J.C. O'Brien. The new investors greatly expanded the show and it's employee base. By that time the only show larger than it was Cody's Wild West.

Lucille Mulhall of the Miller Brothers Show

Trouble in Marion Kentucky and Elsewhere

It seems that some of Buckskin Bill's rough riders were in an altercation in Marion Kentucky that resulted in the clubbing and shooting death of a citizen. The killers were later acquitted of the charges by claiming self defense. In Vincennes Indiana an eighteen year old trick pony rider was killed when her horse threw her, catching her foot in the stirrup and dragging her to death.

In addition to the above, some members of Buckskin Bill's were accused of other murders, arson and kidnapping. One spectator was shot and killed accidentally during one performance. There was also an instance of several employees filed suit on Fletcher Terrell when he didn't pay them.

See the Western Trips articles on the links below...

Buffalo Bill's Wild West in Italy

Annie Oakley Meets Lillian Smith in the Wild West

Buffalo Bill's Wild West Tours Europe

A West Texas Adventure at San Angelo

Some good reading on the subject of the old Wild West Show includes Wild West Shows by author Paul Reddin... Life in the Wild West Show by Stephen Currie...Buckskins Bullets and Business, A History of Buffalo Bill's Wild West by author Sarah J. Blackstone.

Early photo, Cole Younger

Enter Frank James and Cole Younger


One of the most interesting side notes about Buckskin Bill's Wild West Show were two of it's latter entertainers, Frank James and Cole Younger. Many may know that after turning himself in and being tried for murder Frank James was acquitted of all charges in 1883. Cole Younger served a long stretch in the Minnesota Penitentiary for his part in the Northfield Minnesota bank robbery. For Buckskin Bill's show, have Frank James and Cole Younger as part of the troupe would be their answer to Buffalo Bill's Sitting Bull and Pawnee Bil's Geronimo.

The old infamous James-Younger Gang decades later became the James-Younger Wild West Show thanks to a collaboration between Frank James and Cole Younger. Both James and Younger were dissatisfied with Buckskin Bill's Show. The show had trouble from the start and seemed to be cursed as the violent episode in Marion Kentucky is just one example. The tale is that Cole Younger actually had to pull a gun on one of Buckskin Bill's current owners just to quit the show.

In 1903 James and Younger decided to tour and give lectures with their own company. The show toured all over the south in 1903. In 1904 both returned to their families in Missouri. During 1908 and 1909 Cole Younger returned briefly to the carnival and lecture circuit.

(Article copyright 2014 Western Trips. Photos and images in the public domain)

Soldiers on the Western Frontier

Many times when we consider the America's western frontier we remember pictures of the frontier infantry soldiers and cavalry soldiers fighting the Indians of the plains. Protecting settlers from Indians was aprimary duty of the western soldier. They were involved with Indian Wars for decades in the 1800′s which most historians believe finally ended in 1890 at Wounded Knee.

Adobe ruins, Fort Union New Mexico

What really hasn’t had the same publicity as the Indian Wars was what the many duties the rank and file soldier was tasked with. It's surprising just how many roles the western frontier soldier played in civilian life.

Visiting Old Frontier Forts

A lot can be learned by visiting some of the old west forts that today are National Historical Sites. Some of the best include Fort Stockton in southwest Texas, Fort Union in northeastern New Mexico and Fort Concho in San Angelo Texas, Fort Garland in Colorado, Fort Dodge in Kansas and Fort Reno and Fort Sill in Oklahoma.

These are just a few, but they make are fascinating visits.. Everyone of these former frontier forts feature many artifacts of the old west military days and they allow you to get a good feel for what the duties and everyday life was for a soldier in frontier America.

Historic structure, Fort Apache Arizona

Protecting Settlers Along the Famous Western Trails

When settlers headed west during the mid 1800's, a lot of this was during the time of the California Gold Rush when tens of thousands of people headed west and two specific army forts were critical in aiding these overland travelers. Those were forts on the Platte Road, often referred to as the Overland Trail... Fort Kearney in Nebraska and Fort Laramie in Wyoming.

Kearney stood as the first well provisioned fort after the journeys were begun, mostly from towns in western Missouri. Laramie stood further west at the junction of the Bozeman Trail which ran northwest to Montana. To be sure, both forts were established to provide a degree of security for the emigrants and that meant to protect them against Indian raids. Many key cavalry soldier battles with Native Americans were fought in the Powder River region of Montana and further south into Wyoming. Two of the most well know of these battles and two which ended in defeat for the U.S. Army were Battle of the Little Bighorn and the Fetterman Massacre. Those were two which seemed to receive the most publicity. The Little Bighorn Battle which occurred about twenty years after the Fetterman Massacre in Wyoming probably received the most. There were many other fierce battles raged at various times from Arizona to Montana to Idaho.

Cavalry barracks, Fort Stockton Texas

Fort and Road Building

Aside from engaging Indians, what some may not realize was that the frontier America soldier also was a common laborer.  Aside from actually constructing the forts themselves, they built and improved trails and were responsible for keeping the trails open physically. That meant moving stones and boulders and cutting down trees. It also meant constructing bridges and repairing trails after floods. This was all in addition to risking their lives protecting settlers.

Each new fort was built a bit further west extending the doctrine of Manifest Destiny.Some of these forts were built within stockades for protection and many of them were not. Those not inside stockades were usually a set of structures built around a parade ground. Before these forts were complete and fully occupied they were often referred to as camps. By the same token, a good many forts were built, occupied and then abandoned after not too many years when the army decided they were no longer needed. This progression of course went east to west.

Doctor's office, Fort Richardson Texas

Settling Civilian Disputes

Although it could get sensitive and not relished by the military brass, the frontier soldier  became involved in civilian matters on the trail.

One example was an officer serving as judge during a dispute on the Platte Road between two groups of emigrants. The group wanted to split up but couldn’t agree whose property and provisions were ownede by who. A cavalry officer was called in and made the decision himself and the groups traveled on.

Both Kearney and Laramie were well provisioned to sell supplies to the travelers but there were times when the soldiers had to find supplies in emergencies when people found themselves stranded without food. Not all pioneers knew how to stock up for a 2,000 mile journey.  Many purchased mules that weren’t fit for such a long trip. In general, many left on the journey ill equipped. A lot of things can go wrong on a long journey through an unforgiving land.

Original structure, Fort Reno Oklahoma

The Soldier as a Lawman

The cavalry soldier also became a quasi lawman when the military was called upon by the locals to hunt down dangerous outlaws. The new small settlements typically had inadequate law enforcement short of vigilante groups and these were many.  Mostly the army became involved if there was a high profile crime such as a train robbery. The train carried U.S. mail and from that perspective a case could be made for legal military involvement. By law the U.S. Army was to stay away from civilian disputes and was not to be a law enforcement agency but, considering the unique circumstances on the western frontier, the army had little choice but to be involved to a degree.

Below are links to additional Western Trips photo articles you may enjoy...

Fort Apache Arizona

Fort Union New Mexico

Fort Stockton Texas

Some of the Best Historic Western Forts to Visit Today

Some of the best old west forts that today have large exhibits of the old west and how it related to the frontier American soldier include...Fort Stockton in southwest Texas, Fort Union in northeastern New Mexico, Fort Garland in southern Colorado, Fort Reno in central Oklahoma, Fort Sill in southern Oklahoma, Fort Richardson just to the northwest of the Dallas/Fort Worth area and Fort Apache in eastern Arizona.

(Article and photos copyright 2013 Western Trips)

Frontier Museum

Western Trips enjoyed a visit to one of the best museums in the country to explore the life of cowboys and western American history. Everything from cowboys and cowgirls, cowboy art, western art, sculptures, a replica western town and much more is there to explore at this excellent museum.

One of the many exhibit halls

Oklahoma City, OK, the National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum is must stop for anyone traveling through Oklahoma with an interest in cowboys, ranching, rodeos, old frontier towns and the history of people who traveled and lived in the old west. 

The National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum is northeast of downtown Oklahoma City in an area known as Persimmon Hill. As a side note, the Persimmon Hill Garden Club has the distinction of being the oldest neighborhood garden club in the state. The street address of the museum is 1700 N.E. 63rd Street, Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Museum hours are 10:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Daily. The museum is closed Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's.

Enjoy an Extraordinary Western Museum


This is a massive museum, 220,000 square feet, is a world class venue comprising extraordinary collections of art, artifacts and archival materials.Included within the museum are twelve permanent galleries and halls that cover a wide range of subjects. In the museum which was built in 1965 you can walk around and explore a thirteen thousand square foot replica of a turn-of-the-century Western town. Here you can explore a blacksmith shop, photography studio, church, schoolhouse, general store and other replica structures. It's one of the most unique western museum exhibits you'll find anywhere.

Pioneer town old photography studio

Appreciating Western art is another good reason to visit this fabulous museum. Among the western art collections are works of Frederic Remington, Charles M. Russell, William R. Leigh and others. The museum is unique in that it highlights both classic and contemporary western art and exhibits many great sculptures.

The Idea Took Root in the 1950's

The National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum originated in 1955. It was first named the Cowboy Hall of Fame and Museum with many people referring to it as simply the Cowboy Hall of Fame. It's mission was and is to honor the cowboy. A man named Chester A. Reynolds of Kansas City came up with the original idea based on his concern over what he felt was our country's loss of it's Western heritage.

While the original building that was completed in 1965 pretty much focused on the cowboy and cowgirls as well as noted rodeo performers along with western art and cowboy art, an addition was added in the 1990's which allowed the museum to also put a focus on the historical aspect of the American West in general. On November 16, 2000, the museum's name was officially changed to the National Cowboy and Western Heritage Museum.

Cowboy sculpture

Events at the  National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum

In addition to the permanent and temporary exhibits, the National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum also hosts western themed events throughout the year. These include the Academy of Western Art  Workshop covering a variety of subjects. 

The museum also hosts an invitational art exhibit of over 300 Western paintings and sculpture by the best contemporary Western artists in the nation. Included with this are art seminars, receptions and an awards banquet.

Scheduled for April 11-12, 2014 is the National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum Western Heritage Awards. The awards are meant to honor those whose works in literature, music, film, and television reflect the significant stories of the American West. Also awarded at this event is the Chester A. Reynolds Memorial Award.

September 5, 2013 is the date for the Ace High: Dinner and Auction Benefitting The Cowboy. Take part in a reception and auction and help support the museum.

The links below are to two Western Trips photo articles you might also enjoy:

Perot Museum of Nature and Science in Dallas Texas.

Texas Electric Railway Museum in Plano Texas.

Museum Rodeo Hall of Fame

Yet another example of the many events planned at the National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum is the Traditional Cowboy Arts Association 15th Annual Exhibition and Sale. The dates are October 11, 2013  - January 5, 2014. The association announces that they will exhibit works from TCAA members including spur making, saddlemaking, silversmithing, rawhide braiding as just some example. The event honors the culture of the American West by displaying the works of it's dedicated members.

These are only a sample of events held at the museum. For more detailed information and a complete listing see website www.nationalcowboymuseum.org.

Visiting the National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum

As mentioned above, the museum is located in the northeast section of Oklahoma City. Visiting this museum is an all day outing and it's great for the entire family. Western art, cowboy art, western and cowboy artifacts including a large display of rodeo artifacts are all there. This is a fun and educational venue. Western American history is displayed throughout and depending on when your visit is planned there may be interesting workshops and presentations going on. Check their website listed above for dates and times of upcoming workshops. 

Museum entrance

The National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum also has a dining facility called Dining on Persimmon Hill. The restaurant which offers a full menu is located in the museum's east wing and offers a view of the Western States Plaza, pool and fountain.

Also make a point of visiting the Museum Store. It's important to note that all purchases from the Museum Store supports the museum's mission of preserving and presenting the culture and history of the American West.

We know you'll enjoy your visit to the National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum as much as we did.


(Photos are from the author's private collection)

History of Cowboys

The history of cowboys is one of the most researched subjects in America. Cowboy history has been a part of dime novels, heavy tomes as well as motion pictures and television. The biggest question however is what is truth and what is fiction. One of the interesting most facets of studying the subject of cowboy history is determining the difference between the two.

Chuck Wagon exhibit at NM History Museum

As of this writing we're fortunate to have two excellent venues where exploring the history of the American Cowboy is a lot of fun. Below are two museums you will want to add to your next road trip planner.

Cowboy Exhibits at the New Mexico History Museum

The New Mexico History Museum located in Santa Fe New Mexico currently has a very unique and large display of everything cowboy. The New Mexico History Museum is connected with the Palace of the Governors on the Santa Fe plaza. Museum exhibitions cover Native people, Spanish explorers, the Mexican era, the Santa Fe Trail, the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, the Long Walk, outlaws, the railroad, World War II and even modern day New Mexico.

On special exhibit now through March 16, 2014 is Cowboys Real and Imagined. Lectures, western movies and a Wild West Weekend are planned. Among the exhibits featured are artifacts that include cowboy clothing from the 1700's to modern times and a chuck wagon that served the cattle drives of northeastern New Mexico's historic Bell Ranch. This special exhibit uses artifacts and photographs from its own wide-ranging collections, along with loans from more than 100 people and museums. Among the events scheduled during this exhibition's run are archival footage, oral histories, musical performances, and a programming series that includes screenings of classic Western movies filmed in New Mexico. For a schedule of events planned through the exhibits one year run see website www.nmhistorymuseum.org

Try our fun twenty-five question history quiz on our Trips Into History site.

History Quiz

The New Mexico History Museum is located at 113 Lincoln Avenue, Santa Fe NM 

Palace of the Governors stage coach exhibit

If your travel plans include New Mexico you'll surely want to add the New Mexico History Museum and the exhibition Cowboys Real and Imagined to your vacation planner. This is a great exhibition for the entire family to enjoy.

When visiting the New Mexico History Museum be sure to visit the separate Palace of the Governors which faces Santa Fe plaza. The Palace of the Governors has the distinction of being the oldest continuously used public building in the United States. The Palace of the Governors was constructed in the early 17th century as Spain's seat of government for what is today the American Southwest. 

Within it's walls are fascinating exhibits that tell the story of Santa Fe, as well as New Mexico and the region. To mention just a few of the many exhibits on display is a 16th century Morion helmet with a religious depiction that was discovered in a New Mexico location known to have been traveled by Spanish soldiers under Governor Juan de Oñate. You'll also enjoy viewing the New Mexico State Seal that was made from assorted pieces of hardware...spoons, quills and tacks. This particular seal was made by the Shapleigh Hardware Company of Missouri to commemorate New Mexico's entrance into the Union, 1912.

Another very unique exhibition is the Segesser Hide Paintings. These are the first known depictions of Spanish colonial life in the United States.

Links to two additional Western Trips photo articles you'll be interested in include a story about the historic Magdalena Cattle Trail and the famous Waggoner Ranch in north Texas.

National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum

National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum

This is one of the best stops you can make in Oklahoma City. Among the permanent exhibits at the National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum is the 6,500 square foot American Rodeo Gallery which features rodeo exhibits and unique artifacts including a rodeo arena. 

The American Cowboy Gallery is an 8,000 square foot collection that interprets the cowboy's history and culture from Spanish colonial times to the 20th century. Learn how cowboy equipment such as saddle, clothing, bits and spurs changed over the years. The museum is proud to display the most extensive exhibition on the working cowboy in the United States.


Prosperity Junction is a part of the National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum that features 
a replica of a turn-of-the-century cattle town. Among the structures in this 40 foot high exhibition space is a blacksmith shop, school, livery stable, photographer's studio, church and a railroad depot. 

Rodeo Hall of Fame at Oklahoma City cowboy museum

Another permanent exhibit at the museum is Art of the American West. The William S. and Ann Atherton Art of the American West Gallery contains outstanding examples of paintings and sculptures from the more than 2,000 art pieces in the museum collection. 

Among the museum's permanent exhibits are the Fine Firearms Gallery, the Museum of the Frontier West, the Native American Gallery, a Childrens Cowboy Corral and several others. 

As you can see, a visit to the National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum can be a full day or more exploration of the American West. It's a fine addition to your vacation planner and just like the New Mexico History Museum is a fun and educational experience for the entire family.


For more information about the National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum and a schedule of events, see website www.nationalcowboymuseum.org

For great authentic and fun exhibits and and information regarding the history of cowboys, both of these venues, the New Mexico History Museum in Santa Fe and the National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum in Oklahoma City are must stops if your vacation plans take you to either New Mexico or Oklahoma. 

(Photos from author's collection)

Western Army / Fort Reno

1887 Fort Reno Guard House

Western Trips visits Fort Reno Oklahoma, the site of a unique western army fort that operated from the time of the Indian Wars through World War Two.

 Oklahoma historic sites are plentiful. The state is home to many very interesting historic sites that span from the times of the Indian Wars and Indian Territory days through the mid 1900's. Fort Reno is certainly one of these sites.

A Perfect Addition to Your Western Trip

If your western road trip takes you to the Oklahoma City area you'll want to add this stop to your vacation road trip planner. Fort Reno is located just a few miles north of Interstate 40 and only about 26 miles west of Oklahoma City and just outside El Reno Oklahoma.

Fort Reno is also near another historic event which was the Battle of the Washita. This was the battle or massacre of Southern Cheyennes and their peace seeking Chief Black Kettle and his wife in 1868. The conflict involved eleven companies of the 7th Cavalry under Lt. Col. George A. Custer along with additional army troops. Today, the site of the massacre is the Black Kettle National Grassland, about 100 miles west of Fort Reno. Also at this site is the Black Kettle Museum in Cheyenne Oklahoma. The Black Kettle Museum chronicles the Southern Cheyenne and early settlement of the area and is an excellent companion trip to your visit of Fort Reno.

1891 Officers Quarters

An Historic Western Army Fort

Fort Reno was established in 1874 but came to it's present location in 1876. The fort was named by General Philip Sheridan in honor of General Jesse L. Reno, a career army officer, who died in the Battle of South Mountain in 1862. This was the same year as the Battle of the Little Bighorn further north in Montana and at a time that the present state of Oklahoma was designated as the Indian Territory. Fort Reno is also located where a branch of the famous Chisholm Cattle Trail once ran.

One of the fascinating aspects of Fort Reno is the time in history that the fort was operational. Fort Reno was an  outpost for the "buffalo soldiers" in the late 1800's who played a big role in the Indian Wars in both the plains and the southwest...played a role in Oklahoma's entrance into statehood in 1907...was an military outposte during World Wars One and Two and was the site of a German POW camp during the Second World War. Virtually all troops at the fort left to serve during the Spanish American War. That's quite a lot of history for one former western army fort.

Ft Reno 1934 Cavalry Barracks

Fort Reno was abandoned in 1908 just one year after Oklahoma gained statehood but operated as an army remount depot all the way until 1949. A remount depot supplies the army with mules and horses. The remount depot also bred horses for the cavalry. Troopers at this remount station trained cavalry horses and mules for military use. After 1948 all animal breeding became the responsibility of the Department of Agriculture. In addition to being on the National Register of Historic Places, Fort Reno is also home to the U.S. Department of Agrriculture's Grazinglands Research Laboratory.


Also, see our Western Trips photo articles on Fort Union New Mexico where wagon ruts from the old Santa Fe Trail days can still be viewed and a story about historic Fort Concho Texas and it's Indian fighter commander Ranald Mackenzie.

Indian Territory Map

Operating in the Middle of Indian Territory

As many know, the Oklahoma Land Rush which opened the territory to white settlement came with a lot of complications beforehand. Troops at Fort Reno made several evictions of the "Boomers" from the Unassigned Lands of Indian Territory for ten years prior to the opening for settlement in 1889. The troops were also involved with the subsequent land runs in 1892 and 1894.

Fort Reno troops were also called on to settle disputes between the tribes already residing in Indian Territory. Much of the trouble arose from political differences between the tribes. At that time the territory was the home of the "Five Civilized Tribes" that had been forcibly relocated to Oklahoma from the southern U.S. Having all of these tribes living in a relatively small area raised challenges for all involved, the Native Americans and the western army.

Fort Reno Buildings and Grounds

Unlike many western army forts, Fort Reno was originally built with wood, brick and stone. To help construct the fort a sawmill was built. Fort Reno today includes 25 buildings of historic significance and the Post Cemetery located one mile west of the Old Quadrangle or Parade Grounds.

Fort Reno Commissary building

Interred in the Fort Reno cemetery are the remains of pioneer citizens, military personnel, victims of the Northern Cheyenne outbreak, and World War II German prisoners. The post chapel which you can visit today was built by members of Hitler's Afrika Korps. During the Second World War During World War,  94 acres of the forts lands was designated as an internment work camp for German Prisoners of War. More than 1,300 Germans were brought to Fort Reno by railroad. Guards at the POW camp were from the U.S. Army's 435th Military Police Escort Guard Company.

Again, one of the fascinating things about this Oklahoma historic site is how many tasks Fort Reno was assigned during it's decades of operation. 

Fort Reno Post Chapel

The fort buildings have been going through an ongoing restoration program thanks to several grants including a large one from the National Park Service.

Visiting Fort Reno

Fort Reno Oklahoma hosts events throughout the year. These include tours, reenactments, car and motorcycle cruise events, a Christmas celebration and several other gatherings. Fort Reno's Visitor Center in addition to having many excellent artifacts on exhibit helps to educate the public through historical interpretation.Some of the interesting artifacts include Frederick Remington art work after his visiting the fort. German POW letters are exhibited, images of the Cheyenne Indians, clothes of the frontier era and much more.

To reach the Fort Reno Visitor Center from Interstate 40, take exit 119. You'll see several signs that guide you north a few miles to the fort entrance.

Two good books to explore this subject further include Fort Reno and the Indian Territory Frontier by author Stan Edward Hoig and  Black Kettle: The Cheyenne Chief Who Sought Peace But Found War by author Thom Hatch.

(Photos from author's private collection)



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Singer Songwriters / Roger Miller Museum

Roger Miller Museum, Erick Oklahoma

Erick Oklahoma, a town directly on the old Route 66 and approximately the halfway point along Interstate 40 between Ashville North Carolina and Barstow California, is also the home of the Roger Miller Museum. Roger Miller was a among the country superstar singer songwriters and a talented all around performer of such hits as "King of the Road," "Dang Me," "You Can't Roller Skate in a Buffalo Herd". Miller started his music career in the late 1950's after serving in the U.S. Army. Erick Oklahoma and the Roger Miller Museum is an excellent addition to your Oklahoma trip planner. Erick is located about 117 miles east of Amarillo Texas and about 144 miles west of Oklahoma City.

Erick Oklahoma was also called home to other performers such as Sheb Wooley who put out the 1958 hit " The Purple People Eater". Wooley acted in the movies "High Noon", "The Outlaw Josey Wales and appeared on television's "Rawhide". He also appeared on the 1950's television series "The Adventures of Kit Carson". Yet another Bluegrass musician from Erick Oklahoma was Herbert Mayfield. Mayfield performed with his brothers Smokey and Thomas Edd. Edd eventually left the group to join up with Bill Monroe and the Bluegrass Boys.

Roger Miller Boulevard street sign

During the early part of Miller's career he moved to Nashville. While there he also worked as a bellhop and at the same time worked with Minnie Pearl playing the fiddle. When things get a bit tough for him in Nashville as a singer and songwriter, Miller, who was married with a child, decided to move to Amarillo Texas to become a fireman. While being on the Amarillo Fire Department, Roger Miller also did singing engagements at night. From Amarillo, Roger moved back to Nashville and worked with Ray Price as one of his "Cherokee Cowboys". This proved to be a good break for Miller. During this time in Nashville, Miller wrote "Invitation to the Blues" which ended up a number three hit on the country music charts.

With that success, Miller was hired by Tree Publishing for $50 a week and wrote "Half a Mind" for Ernest Tubb. Real success came for Roger with "Billy Bayou", his first number one song written recorded by Jim Reeves. Miller's first recording contract came in 1958 with Decca Records. After a few so so recordings for Decca, Miller went on tour with Faron Young as a drummer and ultimately got a recoding contract with Chet Atkin's at RCA. After coming out with a top ten hit on RCA Records, Miller's career and personal life slid where he was divorced and in Hollywood trying to get an acting career together. It was at this point he signed a small contract with Smash Records to put out sixteen recordings for $1,600. This did prove however to be the big career boost he needed and wanted.

Roger Miller's first motorcycle

Out of those sixteen recordings were the hits "Dang Me" and "Chug-A-Lug". Both were instant successes on both the Country charts and the Billboard Top 100. After several more hits, Roger Miller, the man who signed a contract for $100 per recording 1964 with Smash Records ended up with his own television show on NBC in 1966. While the Roger Miller Show was cancelled after thirteen weeks, Miller continued to record with good success.

Near the end of the 1970's, Miller's songwriting greatly decreased although he did write a Broadway musical score, even acted on Broadway for a short while and did work with Dwight Yoakam on for the country stars 1990 album. Born in 1936, Roger Miller passed away from cancer in 1992.

Two additional article and photos on Western Trips you'll find interesting are the Buddy Holly Center and museum in Lubbock Texas and Route 66 and Amarillo Texas.

More information about Roger Miller and his career can be found at rogermiller.com

Anyone traveling along Interstate 40 or any other road near Erick Oklahoma will absolutely enjoy a visit to the Roger Miller Museum. The singer and songwriter's museum is filled with photos and artifacts, instruments and writings that tell much of the Roger Miller story. One such artifact you'll see are the hand written lyrics for the hit song "King of the Road". The Roger Miller Museum, whose building it is in was constructed in 1929, is located at the corner of Roger Miller Boulevard (old Route 66) and Sheb Wooley Avenue right in downtown Erick.

(Photos from author's private collection)
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Oklahoma Land Rush

Every state in the Union has it's own unique tale to tell. How and when it was settled..the origin of the immigrants who settled there...it's geography and climate. These are a few topics that differentiate between the states that make up the United States.

 I would suggest that there is no state in the Union that compares to the fascinating and somewhat awkward way in which Oklahoma was settled. The Oklahoma Land Rush was a first.




 Visiting Oklahoma

You may be vacationing in Oklahoma or possibly just driving through on either Interstate-40 or Interstate-35. Maybe you're looking for an interesting short Oklahoma side trip. If you are, there are many interesting sites in Oklahoma that tell the story of this states very unusual beginnings. There are plenty of fun and educational things to do in Oklahoma. The sites listed below are just a few that can make your Oklahoma vacation a learning experience.


Some sites you will want to take a side trip to would include the Fort Sill National Historic Landmark Museum. Directions and location according to the museum's website is as follows... Fort Sill is located three miles north of Lawton, Okla. on US Highway 44.  From Lawton on I-44, take Exit 41 going west on Sheridan Road to enter Fort Sill.  After passing through the Checkpoint, turn right immediately on Randolph Road and follow to Chickasha Road.  Turn right one block on Chickasha Road before turning left on Quanah Road.  The Museum Interpretative Center is on the corner of Chickasha and Quanah Roads.Fort Sill remains today an active army base.


Another interesting stop is to the Oklahoma Museum of Flying located at the Wiley Post Airport at 7110 Millionaire Dr. in Bethany Oklahoma. The airport is named after Oklahoma's flying legend and record breaker Wiley Post. Bethany is located about five miles west of Oklahoma City.


Also, don't miss the National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum located in Oklahoma City. The address is 1700 N.E. 63rd Street, Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Good place to learn a lot about the cowboy who worked on the big cattle ranches like the XIT and the King Ranch of Texas.

Guthrie Oklahoma also is very rich in late 1800's and early 1900's history. The towns historic district features an excellent example of late 1800's architecture and is designated a National Historic Landmark. Guthrie is located about 20 miles north of Oklahoma City.

Indian Territory

Cowboy, circa 1902

What is now the state of Oklahoma was at one time the relocated home to many of the Indian tribes throughout much of the country. The Native Americans in many instances were placed on a forced march to this relatively barren land by orders of the U.S. government. In fact, the Indian Wars of the mid to late 1800's was waged to force the Native Americans onto reservations, in Oklahoma and a few other places, and in essence out of the way of settlers quickly occupying the west. What is now the land north of the Red River was set aside for the Native Americans.


The goal of Washington bureaucrats was to convert the Indians into farmers. While a lot of money was spent to educate the Natives in this pursuit, it wasn't too successful. Many of the Indians were nomadic by nature and heritage. Many were hunters, not planters. To change an entire culture that was built up over centuries was a long shot by any standards. Nevertheless, the individual tribes were granted land in this new Indian Territory and the Indian Agents from Washington tried to make them self sufficient as farmers.

Settlers Infiltrate Indian Territory

The Indian Wars were considered over by 1890. The last battle, or more accurately massacre, was at Wounded Knee in December 1890 and after that point the western frontier was considered history.

The land where Indians had been resettled (Indian Territory) was coveted by many would be settlers. Laws however were enacted by executive order that forbid white settlement inside the Indian Territory which was created in 1834 by an act of Congress. The army was tasked with trying to keep the whites out and remove those who somehow did make in. Speculators and landless citizens were organizing and arguing for the opening of the land to white settlement. The newspapers of the era generally referred to these pro-settlement forces as "Boomers". The papers also began using the term Unassigned Lands or Oklahoma which was coined by the pro settlement groups. By and large, the newspapers supported white settlement of this land. Pressure for an Oklahoma Land Rush was growing.

David L. Payne

The biggest activist for white settlement into Indian Territory was a man named Captain David Payne. Payne served with the Kansas Volunteer Infantry during the Civil War and knew the land from Arkansas to Kansas pretty well. Regardless of the warnings from the federal government to stay out of the territory, Payne managed to put together a group of about 10,000 potential settlers in Kansas. While they officially stayed out of Indian Territory, there were many excursions across the border to scout potential settlement sites and in some cases even to plant crops. The military of course threw out any who were caught. The Oklahoma Rush was not too far in the future.


During the following years there were many legal fights in the courts. In one action which was the United States vs. Payne in 1884, a ruling established that settling the "Unassigned Lands" was not a criminal offense. The federal government was also being prodded by commercial interests, most notably from the railroads. There was some white migration into the area as early as 1885 and eventually the U.S. agreed to open up the territory with the stipulation that squatters rights would not be recognized. In other words, there would be a "land rush' at a specified date and time. Any settlement prior to that date would not be recognized.

The Oklahoma Land Rush

1889 Oklahoma Land Rush

After the original settlers were thrown out, on April 22, 1889, the Oklahoma lands were settled by what would be called as the "Run of 89".

Immediately some 50,000 settlers crossed over into Indian Territory. Tent cities were established from Oklahoma City to Stillwater. These tent cities were literally put up overnight.

No doubt some of these locations had been scouted out beforehand and when the 50,000 people entered most knew where they were going. Records show that towns sprang up faster than anywhere in the country, attributed to the fact that 50,000 settlers entered the territory during the very first day of the Land Rush. As an example, at noon on April 22nd, Guthrie Oklahoma had almost no population. By midnight of that day it had 10,000 residents. Guthrie Oklahoma would go on to be the first capitol of the Territory of Oklahoma as well as for the state of Oklahoma. This time frame for growth surpassed anything seen during the great California Gold Rush.

The Second Oklahoma Land Rush


Another Land Rush into Oklahoma occurred during the nation's first deep economic depression caused by the Panic of 1893. The railroads were crippled by the depression and the fact that many people were thrown out of work made the rush of people into Oklahoma even larger. Many people were looking for a fresh start. By this time however there were more people waiting for the start of the rush than there was available land parcels.

The Boomers were the people who waited for the military cannon signaling the start of the rush at twelve noon. The question that often comes up is..what is a sooner? To know what a sooner was you have to define what a "boomer" was. The boomers were the people who waited at the border until the official Oklahoma Land Run began. The "Sooners" as opposed to the boomers were the ones who entered the territory before the official start and they laid claim to much of the better parcels. In other words they figured out a way to sneak in. Some people who entered then decided to leave the territory usually because they couldn't find suitable land or were disappointed with the general geography and soil of the region.

It Was Only a Matter of Time

Melodrama poster of Panic of 1893.

It's interesting to look back at the Oklahoma Land Rush with an Indian perspective. The land rushes that occurred in Indian Territory and Oklahoma in 1889 and 1893 were almost destined to happen.

Throughout most of the 1800's the issue was land and expansion. The military had a difficult time keeping settlers out of agreed upon reservation land in Minnesota, the Dakota's and many other areas. This had been going on since the early 1800's and the land Rush into the Oklahoma Indian Territory was bound to occur eventually.

The push from an expanding population which included many immigrants along with the political pressure exerted by commercial interests made the final Land Rush inevitable. At the same time, the government wanted the Native Americans to become assimilated to the white man's world and keeping the entire area of Oklahoma off limits for Indians was probably never contemplated.


In all, there were a total of seven official land runs into Oklahoma spanning from 1889 to 1895. With the exception of 1889, the land runs were targeted to specific Indian land. The 1889 rush was for "unassigned lands" in several counties. The rushes after that were Indian tribe specific. The 1893 land rush was targeted at the Cherokee Strip which comprised some 7 million acres, an absolutely massive amount of land up for grabs.


Certainly there was no other state in the Union that had it's beginnings the way Oklahoma did. It's a very interesting story and in many ways tells the story of the Indian, the Cowboy, and the settler in a very realistic way. On November 16, 1907 Oklahoma became the 46th state in the Union.

Your Oklahoma vacation or weekend trip can be an educationally rich experience with a stop at any one of several museums and historic sites that chronicle the state's very unique beginnings.

(Article copyright Western Trips. Photos and images in the public domain)

The map below shows the location of Guthrie Oklahoma



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Washita Battle / Oklahoma

The Washita Battlefield National Historic Site might not be the most publicized historic location to visit but it exemplifies the struggle between the Native Americans and the American westward expansion. It highlights all of the ingredients of conflict. Located 150 miles west of Oklahoma City near Cheyenne Oklahoma and easily accessible off Interstate-40, it is the site of a battle which had lasting effects even to the present day.


Facts About the Washita Battle

Cheyenne Chief Black Kettle

The Washita National Battlefield Historic Site marks the location of Lt. Col. George A. Custer's 1868 surprise dawn attack on the Southern Cheyenne village of Peace Chief Black Kettle.

Another interesting fact for history buffs on the National Park Service website is that Captain Louis Hamilton was the first casualty during the attack on the Washita. Captain Hamilton was grandson of Alexander Hamilton, the first Secretary of the Treasury of the United States.

If your next western road trip takes you though or near the state of Oklahoma you may want to add it to your vacation trip itinerary. In addition to ranger led talks there is a 1.5 mile walking trail. Admission is free. The site is located in western Oklahoma halfway between Amarillo, TX and Oklahoma City, OK. Cheyenne is approximately 30 miles north of I-40 on Hwy 283 and approximately 20 miles east of the Texas border.

 Broken Treaties and Trouble

Years before the battle of the Little Bighorn, there was a key battle called the Battle of Washita and it's frequently also referred to as the Washita Massacre. Similar to many other battles during this country's Indian War it had to do with the moving or attempted moving of Native Americans to reservation land. The visitor center features exhibits about the battle, the soldiers involved and the Cheyenne people, as well as an informative film and a bookstore.

Washita Battlefield

In the case of the Washita episode which was to have reverberations for many years, the episode was a bloody one. After the Southern Cheyenne and the Arapaho agreed to the Medicine Lodge Treaty they were required to relocate south from what is now Kansas and Colorado to Oklahoma which was then Indian Territory. The problem was simply that these tribes had to give up very good hunting grounds for what was marginally arable land in present day Oklahoma.

Part of the Indian policy of the U.S. was to teach the Indians the art of farming. This was not something agreeable to the tribes who had been hunters for centuries. The Medicine Lodge Treaties were really three separate treaties signed during 1867. The first was with the Kiowa and Comanches. The second with the Kiowa-Apache and the third with the Southern Cheyenne and Arapaho.


Why didn't these treaties hold? The first and probably foremost problem was that under the Medicine Lodge Treaty of 1867, the tribes were given reservations of much smaller size than assigned in an 1865 treaty. In addition to this, the male members of the tribes did not okay the vote as stipulated in the agreement. What typically happened in situations of this kind was that a fragile peace would be followed by raids on white settlements. In the summer of 1868, war parties representing most of these tribes went on a raiding rampage in western Kansas, northwest Texas and southeast Colorado. Among the raids in Kansas, which started in August 1868, Indian warriors killed at 15 white settlers, wounded others, took some captive and allegedly  raped some women. This of course was met with a U.S. military response.


Indian Agent Wynkoop

Gen. Philip Sheridan

It was learner by Indian Agent Edward Wynkoop, through an interview with Little Rock, a chief in Black Kettle,s camp, that a large war party of Cheyennes from another camp set out to engage Pawnees but attacked the white settlers in Kansas instead.

After the Kansas raid several of the warriors responsible returned to Black Kettle's camp and Little Rock assured the Indian Agent that he would identify them and turn them over. That didn't happen. Instead, a month later many warriors, some leaving from Black Kettle's camp went on the warpath once again and attacked white settlements in the Smoky Hill River area in west central Kansas.

Smoky Hill River

What occurred next is what has been debated for over 150 years. The central question is...were all the Cheyennes on the warpath? The agreed upon answer is no. Some were. The action taken in response to the continued raids and massacres was a plan put together by General Philip Sheridan (U.S. retouched public domain photo above right) for punitive attacks.

 The plan was for attacks on Cheyenne winter camps for the purpose of destroying both supplies and livestock, and killing any Indians who resisted his forces. The attack took place at dawn on November 28, 1868. At this time Black Kettle and his people set up a camp on a bend on the Washita River. The camp had fifty-one lodges and the village was populated by Cheyenne women, children, and elders as well as recently returned warriors who  now were much willing to accept the peaceful ways of Black Kettle after chief Roman Nose was killed in September 1868 at the Battle of Beecher's Island. The facts accepted by most researchers is that Black Kettle, in November 1868, was presiding over an encampment of peace seeking people.

Chief Black Kettle

Research portrays Black Kettle as being a peaceable leader which at that time he appeared to be.  His stance for peace was probably based more in realizing the strength of his opposition. Black Kettle was said to have stated that a war with the whites could not be won. He decided that the whites were too numerous and their weapons too strong. He also acknowledged their ability to fight during the winter when Indian horses were at their weakest. It's also noted that when the red stone war pipe was passed among the chiefs, Black Kettle was the one chief who did not partake.

A Dawn Raid By Custer

Washita Massacre, Harpers Weekly, 1868

The dawn raid on Black Kettle's village on the Washita River remains a somewhat controversial  topic. The slaughtering of men, women and reportedly children had lingering effects that probably were contributing factors of later battles.

What some historians refer to as Sheridan's extermination policy set Custer on his way to the Washita. The bloody Cheyenne raids in Kansas gave the government it's reason to pursue it. Considering the war departments stance that all Cheyennes were guilty for the trespasses of the few in the Kansas raids, there is no question that Custer was following his orders by attacking Black Kettle's Washita River village.

The tale is that Custer followed a small party of returning warriors right to Black Kettle's camp. The majority of the warriors heading to a larger encampment elsewhere. A woman reportedly alerted Black Kettle of the approaching cavalry and the chief fired a warning shot to awaken his people so they could flee. At this point Black Kettle apparently tried to flee on horseback with his wife and both being shot off the horse and killed. Custer reported after the battle/massacre that one of his Osage Indian guides took Black Kettle's scalp. Records from the military state that the 7th cavalry had twenty one officers and men killed and 13 wounded. The army estimated the Indians had about 50 killed and most likely the same number wounded.

The Debate Regarding Custer's Attack

The debate regarding the Washita affair really centers around the question...did George Armstrong Custer and his Seventh Cavalry cut down a village of innocent people? My research would indicate the answer is yes. However, to fully understand (not necessarily vindicate) what happened in November 1868, one has to study the era.

Westward migration was running at a fast clip. The Civil War had concluded just a few years prior. During the Civil War years the plains Indians had less opposition since many of the troops were back east. White settlements were raided quite regularly during those years and now the raids were continuing. What riled the Indians? You could say broken treaties, promised food and supplies arriving late if at all and of course the dictate that they were to move to barren reservations. In retrospect, these are fairly good reasons to rebel. The press of the day also joined the debate. Both the Leavenworth Daily Bulletin and the New York Tribune reported that some government officials, including a few army officers, felt that an innocent village was attacked. One reported that Indian Agent Edwin Wynkoop, who had tried to keep the peace, resigned after the attack.

Who Will the Military Punish?

Edwin Wynkoop

I suppose you could ask how the military, with all the numerous tribes and chiefs, could discern who was a guilty warrior and who was a peaceful Indian. They probably couldn't. I would expect that from the perspective of a frontier white settler, an Indian was an Indian.

Chasing down only those warriors directly responsible for bloody raids would be complicated to the least. A large band of say 200 warriors might come from and return to several different camps. Who would have or could have admitted their participation? Considering this, the government for better or for worse  appears to have taken the shotgun approach to solving the problem of Indian raids.

Anyway you look at it, the Washita Battle/Massacre was a very unfortunate engagement. There is no question that innocent people lost their lives. This by no means was the first or last time innocents died. The Wounded Knee Massacre in 1890 is just another example. Obviously this still occurs during modern warfare. The white settlers who perished during Indian raids would also have to be considered innocent casualties of war. These types of engagements unfortunately have bad results for both sides. What happened on the Washita River is a perfect example. Visiting the Washita National Historic Site is a walk back into history where you might be able to discover for yourself what exactly caused this unfortunate episode in American history.

This very historic site is a good addition to your western road trip planner.

(Photo and images from the public domain)