Western Trips

Showing posts with label Oregon Trail. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Oregon Trail. Show all posts

Sunday, November 25, 2012

Conestoga Wagons



They looked graceful, they were called ships of inland commerce and they transported thousands of immigrants during the 1800's. The Conestoga Wagons played a very significant part in our nation's expansion. The Conestoga and then a hybrid of it was used by immigrants traversing the Overland Trail.

The Famous Conestoga

conestoga
Conestoga Wagon reenactment, 1961
The wagon's name denotes the region of Pennsylvania where they were first used in the early 1700's. The Conestoga Wagon was first used in the east carrying freight over the Allegheny Mountains. Later they and an offshoot of the Conestoga were used over the plains and the Rocky Mountains carrying settlers to California and Oregon. Traders on the old Santa Fe Trail liked the Conestoga wagon for both it's size and durability. The Santa Fe Trail was a heavy traveled freight route reaching from Missouri westward to Santa Fe. Often times the Conestoga wagons on the Santa Fe Trail pulled another wagon from behind.

The Construction of the Conestoga Wagon

The Conestoga wagon is often referred to as the "covered wagon". The covering which is the most distinctive trait on the Conestoga wagon was first made from hempen homespun and later of canvas.The wooden bottom of the wagon box was curved and rose at both ends. This design helped with the cargo while ascending and descending hills. The cargo would shift less easily and the tailgate would receive less strain. The wagon's wheels were usually rimed with iron to add to durability.

The wagon's average dimensions were 18 feet long, 11 feet high, and 4 feet wide. The wagon was pulled by horses or mules and was said to be able to carry about eight tons. The wagon might typically be pulled by up to eight horses or perhaps a dozen oxen or mules. Conestoga wagons were also known not to have drivers seats. The driver would generally walk alongside the wagon leading the front animal. The lead horse was usually the first on the left. There was often a braking system used which was generally a chain leading to the rear wheels. The chain could stop the wheel rotation causing a slide that would slow down the wagon.

prairie schooner photo
Prairie Schooner exhibit, Sutters Fort, Sacramento CA
The Conestoga Horse

The Conestoga Wagon actually had it's own breed of horse developed during the 18th and 19th centuries. These were the Conestoga Horses, bred to pull the typical heavy loads of the Conestoga's. The horses were first bred in Lancaster County Pennsylvania by Mennonite German settlers. This may certainly the only time in history that a special breed of horse was developed for one single commercial purpose. A Conestoga horse could be as large as seventeen hands. The breed is now extinct. The famous wagons lasted in the public's imagination much longer than the horses bred to pull them. The Conestoga horse today can only be seen in artwork from the era.

The Prairie Schooner

Essentially, the "prairie schooner" was a smaller Conestoga wagon. In modern day times it would be a small SUV as compared to a Chevy Suburban. The Conestoga's size alone made crossing the Rocky Mountains quite difficult. The size of the Conestoga killed oxen halfway through the trip west.

wagon train
1912 Pioneer reenactment
The immigrants were resourceful and came up with an alternative. The prairie schooner was basically a half size Conestoga. The prairie schooner was typically about four feet wide and ten to twelve feet long. This hybrid wagon weighed about 1300 pounds and could be easily disassembled. Everything the pioneer needed to cross rivers and certain mountain passes. The wagon bed usually was two to three feet deep. The front wheels were typically 44 inches in diameter and the rear wheels about 50 inches. The smaller front wheels allowed for sharper turns. Compared to the Conestoga wagon the prairie schooner had a relatively flat bottom.

The prairie schooner covering was often called the "bonnet". The covering was held securely to the wagon frame by hardwood bows. As far as springs were concerned, the prairie schooner usually had one set, under the drivers seat. The story is that the springs helped make the seat a bit more usable but by no means comfortable.

Probably one of the biggest misconceptions regarding the prairie schooner was that it was pulled by horses. In reality it was pulled by teams of oxen. Oxen were considered stronger than horses for heavy loads, endured longer, and their water needs were less. Something particularly important over the western desert region.

old west wind wagon
Old West Wind Wagon
It's also noted that some travelers on the Oregon and California Trails utilized wagons somewhat smaller than the prairie schooners. Some of these were simple ranch wagons with a covering. Although they served the purpose they were not nearly as sturdy as the prairie schooner and provided less shelter.

Three additional photo articles on Western Trips you'll find interesting are Oregon City Oregon, the official end of the Oregon Trail... Independence Missouri, the start of the Overland and Oregon Trail and Peppard's Wind Wagon, a way to travel westward by wind power alone. The photo left shows one variety of the Wind Wagon.

See the Conestoga Wagons and the Prairie Schooners

Among the select museums and historic sites where you can view the prairie schooners and the Conestoga wagons are the Virginia Museum of Transportation in Roanoke Virginia...Sutters Fort in Sacramento California...Fort Union in northeastern New Mexico about halfway between Las Vegas and Raton...The Conestoga Area Historical Society in Conestoga Pennsylvania...the Frontiers Trail Museum in Independence Missouri...The National Museum of American History in Washington D.C. and the North Carolina Transportation Museum in Spencer North Carolina.


               


OLD WEST COVERED WAGONS VIDEO





Wagon Train Reenactments

For those wishing to attend a real wagon train reenactment, check out the Highway 50 Association which conducts an annual wagon train, usually in June, between Nevada and California. The wagon train typically begins in the lake Tahoe area and travels westward into California. Their website is www.hwy50wagontrain.com

Two excellent reference books on frontier covered wagons are  Daily Life in a Covered Wagon by author Paul Erickson and Conestoga Wagons by Richard Ammon and Bill Farnsworth.

(Sutters Fort covered wagon photo from author's collection. Remaining photos from the public domain)

Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Astoria Oregon

National Geographic 603070 821 Boots Columbia River Gorge Oregon (Google Affiliate Ad)
columbia river ships
Ship on the Columbia River off Astoria

 Things to Do in Astoria Oregon

Astoria Oregon, located in the northwestern corner of Oregon at the mouth of the Columbia River, offers the western tourist plenty of things to do and many sites to explore. Make a note of great attractions such as the Columbia River Maritime Museum, Fort Stevens and Fort Clatsop. The Columbia River Maritime Museum is one of the finest museums in the United States and is filled with many authentic boat exhibits, some interactive, artifacts, photos and everything that details maritime history of the Pacific Northwest and the Columbia River.

How Astoria Came into Being

Astoria Oregon first came into being by the efforts of John Jacob Astor to establish a base for his new Pacific Fur Company. This was a pretty aggressive move since Astor would be challenging the Hudson's Bay Company along with the North West Company. Astor actually sent out two different expeditions to locate a satisfactory trading post. One was sent overland beginning from Montreal. The other expedition set out by sea, rounding Cape Horn and sailing all the way up the South American and North American coastlines to the mouth of the Columbia River. This all occurred in 1811-1812, just five years after the famous Lewis and Clark Expedition which also ended at the mouth of the Columbia. The overland party reached the mouth of the Columbia River in February of 1812 and the seafarers about a month later.

columbia river maritime museum
Columbia River Maritime Museum
The members of the expedition met with some local Indian hostility and suffered some fatalities but the site chosen was eventually cleared of timber and a fort/trading post was erected. The most significant loss of life occurred when the ship that arrived from the Cape Horn route, Tonquin, sailed north along the coast to trade with Indians. This trading expedition met with disaster when the party was massacred by Indians they were trading with.

Relations With Local Indians

In the book, It Happened in Oregon, author James A. Crutchfield describes how the party back at Astoria managed to keep the Indians around their fort under control after hearing about the Tonquin tragedy. One of the expedition leaders, Duncan McDougal, who also feared that his group might be attacked by the Indians around Astoria, devised a plan. McDougal gathered together the leaders of local tribes. At this gathering he showed them a bottle he was carrying and said to them " The white men around you are few in number, it is true, but they are mighty in medicine. See here, in this bottle I hold the smallpox, safely corked up. I have but to draw the cork, and let loose the pestilence, to sweep man, woman and child from the face of the earth". This startled the Indians. They greatly feared an epidemic and as a result swore peace with the settlers. Shortly afterward, the expedition resumed trading with the Indians.

columbia river logging industry
Logging industry along the Columbia River
Big Changes at Astoria

In regards to Astor's plans for his new fur company, by late 1813, the British owned North West Company took over Astoria including all of it's furs and furnishings after purchasing everything from Astor. This occurred after an Astor supply ship was late in arriving and because of the settlements vastly undermanned situation due to the Tonquin massacre. Interestingly enough, even though the fort was now owned by a British company, the British military took over the fort in 1814 and renamed it Fort George. The North West Company shortly thereafter continued it's fur operations from the fort. The British military aggressiveness in the region was an extension of the then War of 1812.

Eventually, in 1821, the North West Company merged with the Hudson's Bay Company. The Hudson's Bay Company wasn't satisfied with the location and constructed Fort Vancouver across the Columbia River from present day Portland Oregon. Fort Vancouver would go on to be the chief site of operations for the Hudson's Bay Company and eventually for the U.S. military..

astoria oregon
Astoria Oregon
The major change in the American Northwest occurred in 1846 when the United States and Great Britain divided up the entire region. What the U.S. would obtain from this division is now the states of Oregon, Washington, Idaho and parts of Wyoming and Montana. Oregon's northern border with Washington was determined as being the Columbia River. Oregon would go on to become the official Oregon Territory in 1848 and eventually attained statehood status in 1859 as the nation's thirty-third state.

Today, Astoria Oregon is both a busy port as well as a very popular tourist destination. It's location at the mouth of the Columbia River on the Pacific coast makes it a very scenic area. Astoria Oregon lodging is plentiful and you'll find an excellent selection of restaurants.

clatsop county heritage museum
Clatsop County Heritage Museum
 In addition to the Columbia River Maritime Museum mentioned above, the area is also home to the Lewis and Clark National and State Historical Parks, Fort Stevens State Park to the west on the ocean, the Astoria Riverfront Trolley, Fort Clatsop National Memorial, the Flavel House Museum, the Clatsop County Heritage Museum which is housed in the old City Hall building constructed in 1904 and pictured at right and several other historical attractions. You'll find many fun things to do in Astoria.

Two additional Western Trips articles that you'll find interesting are Historic Oregon City and the story of Fort Kearney Nebraska, the key fort for immigrants along the old Overland Trail.

When you drive south from the Astoria area on US Hwy 101, tourists enjoy several of the beachfront towns such as Seaside and Cannon Beach Oregon, twenty-five miles south of Astoria. It's estimated that these two coastal towns receive about 750,000 tourists annually. The beaches are excellent and there's a large number of beach rentals and B & B's available as well as a great selection of restaurants.

(Photos from author's private collection)
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Sunday, September 16, 2012

Oregon City

columbia river
View of Columbia River east of Portland Oregon

If your plans for a western trip call for a visit to the American Northwest, Oregon is a must destination. The state of Oregon and historic Oregon City, just a few miles south of Portland, tell much of the story of westward immigration during the middle part of the 1800's. The history found there and the unsurpassed beautiful scenery make Oregon an excellent vacation destination. Between the beautiful Columbia River Gorge just east of Portland, to the fertile Willamette Valley, Willamette River, Mount Hood and the mountainous coastline, Oregon can either be a part of you vacation or the entire thing.

The first United States citizens to arrive overland in present day Oregon were among the Lewis and Clark  Expedition of 1804-1805. This was followed in 1810 by the Astor Expedition which sought to establish a fur trading operation in the area. Fort Astoria was established at the mouth of the Columbia River at the site of today's Astoria Oregon.

A 2,000 Mile Route

The city of Oregon City itself is both historic and scenic. Located along the Willamette River, Oregon City was the final destination for most of the Oregon Trail immigrants. If you're looking for the end of the Oregon Trail, it can be found at Oregon City, Oregon.

willamette falls
Willamette Falls
The Oregon Trail was composed of a series of very old Indian trails and in some cases animal trails. These trails or paths were first used by white fur trappers and traders. The trail ran west from Independence Missouri through Nebraska and Wyoming. In western Wyoming near Fort Bridger, the trail parted. Those seeking to reach Oregon traveled northwestward along the Snake River and then down the Columbia River and finally up the Willamette River. Those heading to California would take a southwestward route over Utah and Nevada and eventually Donner Pass in the Sierra Nevada. Some travel was by river and at times around the many mountains and hills in the region. It was a treacherous 2,000 mile journey. The dangers present were not only from hostile Indians and possible starvation but also from sickness, in most cases cholera and smallpox. After a steady rise, immigration to Oregon peaked in 1852.

The Founding of Oregon City

The entire area of present day Oregon and Washington state was at one time inhabited by workers for the Hudson's Bay Company. This was long before the Oregon Trail days. Their main base of operation was at Fort Vancouver, just across the Columbia River from present day Portland Oregon. In 1829, the Chief Factor at Fort Vancouver, Dr. John McLoughlin, planned a two square mile settlement at Willamette Falls on the Willamette River. He had three houses built which were burned down in short order by local Indians. McLoughlin was not deterred and had the houses rebuilt. From there the settlement grew with a mill being constructed using the Willamette Falls as a power source. These were the first buildings of a white settlement in Oregon. Most of the inhabitants were workers for the Hudson's Bay Company. At the time, the settlement was called Willamette Falls.

mclaughlin house in oregon city
McLaughlin House
Willamette Mission

In 1834, the Reverend Jason Lee and his nephew, Reverend Daniel Lee, were approved by the Mission Society of the Methodist Episcopal Church to establish a mission in the west. When the Lees arrived at Fort Vancouver, Dr. McLoughlin encouraged them to start their work south of the Columbia River in the Willamette Valley. The Willamette Mission was established in 1834 in present-day Marion County.

A key event occurred in 1839 when Reverend Jason Lee traveled to Illinois for a series of lectures. Reverend Lee was looking for recruits for the Willamette Mission as well as settlers to Oregon in general. His travels were met with success. The country was going through a financial depression at the time therefore there were many looking for a fresh start. This was the beginning of the Oregon Trail days.

The First Settlers

Heeding the call of Reverend Lee, the first settlers arrived in the Willamette Valley in late 1839 and early 1840. Each year thereafter, immigration to Oregon increased. Oregon City was the destination of most. From there they could obtain parcels of land and begin their homesteads. The early settlers in the 1840's called the falls,"Hyas Tyee Tumwater" which is generally translated into "Great Chief Falls". This was the name given by the Clackamas Native Indians of the area. Today there is a dam and locks at the falls including a fish ladder. The Indians eventually relocated to Grande Ronde Reservation by the 1850's with a few groups remaining in Clackamas County. It's estimated that about 53,000 settlers arrived in Oregon between 1841 and 1860.

oregon city municipal elevator
Oregon City Municipal Elevator
Creation of America's Northwest

Ever since the end of the 1700's, the Pacific Northwest was a contested area between Great Britain and the United States. Great Britain's presence in the area was largely through the Hudson's Bay Company. In 1846, the United States and Great Britain finally divided the land of the Northwest. The U.S. obtained what is today Oregon, Washington, Idaho and parts of Montana and Wyoming. Territorial status for Oregon would not happen until 1848 and not until a tragedy sped up the process. In November of 1847, the Whitman Mission near Walla Walla Washington was attacked by Indians. Both Mr. and Mrs.Whitman and several others were killed. Some 50 plus including women and children were kidnapped. This tragedy so shocked the U.S. Congress that the region was divided into Territories and Oregon received territorial status in 1848.

oregon city view
Oregon City from atop the bluff
Things To Do In Oregon City

The Willamette Falls- The Willamette Falls is the largest waterfall in the Pacific Northwest and only second to Niagara Falls in volume.

The Oregon State Welcome Center and Official End of the Oregon Trail- 1726 Washington Street.

McLaughlin House- 713 Center Street.

Two additional Western Trips articles and photos you'll enjoy are a trip on the Amtrak Coast Starlight and the Oregon Trail wagon ruts at Lake Guernsey State Park in Wyoming.

The Museum of the Oregon Territory- 211 Tumwater Drive.

The Oregon City Municipal Elevator- A very unique must stop on any visit to Oregon City.Most of the town during the early years was located along the river. When the city grew, there was a need to find an easier way to get up the ridge line to the east. In 1867, steps were built to help one get up the bluff. An elevator made of steel and wood was put into operation in 1915 powered by water pressure. In 1924, the power source was changed to electricity. The existing elevator was built in 1955. This is one of just four municipal elevators in the world. After ascending the bluff you'll have a terrific view of Oregon City, the Willamette River and the Willamette Falls.

This is a spectacular part of Oregon and filled with history.

(Photos from author's private collection)




Friday, July 29, 2011

Fort Kearney / The Key Fort For America's 1800's Westward Expansion

Fort Kearney was located on probably one of the worlds busiest immigrant trails. That was the reason for it's existence. Fort Kearney Nebraska just happened to be located on the Platte Road which was the east-west thoroughfare traveled by settlers emigrating to points west, namely to California and Oregon. It was also well traveled earlier in the 19th century by gold seekers heading to California as well as freighters bringing supplies west to both settlers and the various military posts.
stephen kearny
Fort Kearney was named after Stephen W. Kearney (his name also appears as Kearny in some biographies). Kearney served as a First Lt. during the War of 1812 and further distinguished himself during the Mexican-American War of 1848 especially for his service in the California Campaign. It's interesting to note that Kit Carson, then a scout, served under Kearney in California primarily as a messenger which at that time was an important task. In regards to the Native Americans, in the early 1840's Kearney traveled with troops to a spot in southeastern Wyoming about where Fort Laramie is located in a show of force after settlers were raided by several Indian tribes. His journey really had two goals. One was to try to restore peace with the tribes by offering presents and at the same time to display the American firepower and weaponry in a bid to discourage the Indians from further raids on both the settlers and the freighters. The results were mediocre in as much as the Indians were not really intimidated, at least not to the degree Kearney had hoped.

After the Mexican-American War ended Kearney became military governor of the California Territory for a short time After returning to Washington D.C. he was then named governor of Veracruz and then Mexico City. Kearney contracted yellow fever while in Veracruz and subsequently died at age 54 in St. Louis Missouri.

The First Fort Kearney

Fort Kearney was built at two different locations. The first was near present day Nebraska City, about 50 miles south of Council Bluffs, and was constructed by Kearney and his troops with orders from Washington. While being constructed in 1847 it was determined that this really was not an ideal location to protect the emigrating settlers who started their journey in western Missouri. As a result, a new location along the Platte River, about 200 miles west of the first fort, was surveyed and construction was begun there in 1848 with 175 troops used as labor. The early 1850's was a relatively peaceful time at the fort but things then turned hostile with the Indians when the Nebraska and Kansas Territories were formed.

The post served as the first major resupply center for settlers heading west from Missouri. In addition to providing supplies the soldiers also had the duty to protect wagon trains. Much of the Indian trouble after 1865 however was located west and northwest of Fort Kearney in the area of Fort Laramie and northwards into Montana. These were the sites of the Fetterman Massacre and Red Cloud's War in 1866 and the Custer defeat by the Sioux in 1876.

fort kearney map
 The Second Fort Kearney

The second Fort Kearney consisted of about fifteen structures, some unpainted wood and others adobe or sod buildings. There might be a blockhouse which served many purposes such as a post office, drugstore, court, jail and storehouse. The typical western military fort as depicted by Hollywood is surrounded by a wall of timbers or what we refer to as a stockade. The fact is that most western forts did not have stockades and Fort Kearney simply had structures built around a parade ground. During the Indian troubles some earthen reinforcements were added however a stockade was never constructed.


A western military fort such as Fort Kearney was constructed at this vital geographic point to not only supply the westward moving settlers and wagon trains and not solely to provide protection. It really was a combination of both of these services with the overall aim to do everything possible to aid western expansion. In other words, a fort such as Kearney was a key element in the achievement of Manifest Destiny. Over 500 ox teams could travel past the fort on a summers day and the army became very involved with the overland travelers. A cavalry officer might come to the aid of a settler in need. He might be found arbitrating a dispute among the emigrants which did happen from time to time. He might try to provide emergency aid when possible to settlers who started their journey unprepared for the 2,000 mile Oregon Trail trek.


oxen
Fort Kearney became the major mailrek. Some emigrants started out their trip with no knowledge of the ever present dangers. stop along the Platte Road when stagecoach service was established. It served as a stopping point on the Pony Express trail. When Indian hostilities broke out in 1864, Fort Kearney was reinforced with troops from the Nebraska Volunteers and strict rules were in place regarding wagon train travel. During this period wagon trains traveling west of the fort were required to be at least fifty in number to be able to fend off Indian attacks.


As was the case with many western U.S. military forts, civilian settlements sprang up very close, sometimes within a mile or two, and these small towns attracted a wide array of characters...some good and hardworking and others very bad. The U.S. Government had a rule against military forts becoming civilian trading areas therefore small settlements grew within the shadow of many forts. In the case of Fort Kearney, a settlement named Dobytown was located just a few miles west of the fort. It acquired a reputation of being a wild frontier town with an overabundance of bad characters.


fort kearney
Fort Kearney provided an essential service to Platte Road and Oregon Trail emigrants for many years but as the railroad stretched across Nebraska and then with the Transcontinental Railroad's completion in 1869, the necessity of maintaining these forts, and the expense involved, was debated. While outposts were still required, the number of forts needed was the question, at least along the path of the railroads. As a result Fort Kearney was abandoned with the last soldier leaving the fort on May 17, 1871. You also may be interested in the story of Fort Davis Texas along the San Antonio to El Paso Trail.

The State of Nebraska offers many unique historic vacation attractions and a visit to the Fort Kearney State Historic Park is one of these. Located just south of Kearney Nebraska and Interstate-80, the area is easily accessible.

Another good frontier era attraction is the General George Crook House on the north side of Omaha Nebraska. The Crook House was once the headquarters of the Army's Department of the Platte. While planning a vacation to Nebraska you may also want to add the site of the first Fort Kearney located near Nebraska City and about 50 miles south of Council Bluffs. Travel and tourism in the state of Nebraska can be an educational trip back to the time of America's massive westward expansion and the Oregon Trail days.

You will also want to see our Western Trips article and photos of Oregon City, the official end of the Oregon Trail.

(Photos are from the public domain)